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Keep blowing Instrument Cluster 20A Fuse


This is a discussion on Keep blowing Instrument Cluster 20A Fuse within the Tech Info forums, part of the 11th Generation F Series : 2004 - 2008 category!
I think its the Instrument Cluster one. Its the only other 20A Female fuse besides the ABS valves. Here's the ...




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Old 05-23-2011, 08:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Keep blowing Instrument Cluster 20A Fuse
I think its the Instrument Cluster one. Its the only other 20A Female fuse besides the ABS valves. Here's the issue: I have toggle switches, 2 total, wired up. 1 is for my AC compressor clutch (don't ask) and the other is for my fogs/grill lights. Now, I had all this setup exactly as I have it wired now, and didn't blow any fuses. Now all of a sudden I have blown 4 in 12hrs.

I have a 4pin relay wiring setup for each system, ac & lights. As long as I dont have the lights wired to the switch (i bought new switches yesterday too) the fuse wont blow. however, just pluggin the ground, const 12v and then the acc wire blows the Instrument Cluster fuse the MOMENT i put the key in. Am I trying to draw too much power off that 12v that I tapped from my cluster under my dash and thats why i keep trippin the fuse, or would it be something else? If it is pulling too much for both relay systems, where is another viable 12v source that isn't associated to the cluster (wire in the door sill?)? Thanks!

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Old 05-23-2011, 11:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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bump... anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

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Old 05-23-2011, 11:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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the blowing instantly usually indicates a direct short somewhere. where you ask? only your truck knows


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Old 05-23-2011, 12:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rrogers View Post
the blowing instantly usually indicates a direct short somewhere. where you ask? only your truck knows
its weird though. if thats the case, then the short must be on the foglight end of my system somewhere, cuz if its unplugged from the switch, i have no problems. but the moment I plug it in, it fries out. guess i'll have to rewire my fogs then. thanks.

do you think a 30A would work and hold out from blowing or i should just stick w/ the 20A that is supposed to be there?

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Old 05-23-2011, 12:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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i say keep the twenty. if its a short it should blow the 30 right away also.


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Old 05-23-2011, 12:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks! glad I bought 50' of black/red/yellow 14g wiring yesterday too. just need a few new switches.

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Old 05-23-2011, 12:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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sorry Vano just saw this thread seems like you got everything under control now.


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Old 05-24-2011, 09:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cowboy View Post
sorry Vano just saw this thread seems like you got everything under control now.
yea, here's what happened. so apparently all that happened was my relay went out. turns out that when i unplugged everything from my switches, and then replugged them in, i crossed the lead and the power on the switch by accident. popped the cluster fuse all day. i realized that was the problem when i wired everything w/ no relay, and the moment i connected the power, smoke startin to come up and sure enough, i was burnin that power wire coating lol. quickly grabbed some snips and stopped that ****. yanked it out the engine bay, and then rewired everything up, w/ no relay for now. i'm gonna be rewiring everything to its own toggle: fogs, grill lights, cab roof lights, and then an extra one for whatever i want to add next. pics to come... thanks!

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Old 05-24-2011, 10:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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sounds good man glad you found the problem


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